![]() On the other hand, the longer it gets the more prone it will be to breaking or bending. It should be long enough to hold the pliers open wide enough to accommodate the brass etching when reaching all the way over the etching. The length of the punch is also relevant. Question in that matter is whether I'll be able to drill a hole that small in the hardened steel of the pliers. In hindsight I might better have used 0,3 by 0,3 mm, so maybe I'll sacrifice another pair of pliers on the altar of cheap DIY tooling. This hole is 0,5mm wide and probably not much deeper. If it's too deep or too wide your rivet punch will drive through the brass. The size of this countersunk hole is very important. Once the punch is in place the pliers are closed and the exact location of the countersunk hole is determined, which you see here drilled after positioning took place. The more it is straight, the longer it will last during pressing. Placing the one for the first time is a little fiddly: it must be positioned absolutely straight to all sides. I soldered the head of a common "every household" steel pin in place. The distances to the edges will determine how close the rivets can be punched to each other, so keep the clearances as tight as possible. I cut off the first centimeter or so because this is too thin to drill a hole deep enough to hold the actual rivet punch.Īfter some filing I drilled a 0,7 mm hole close to the front edge. The basis for the DIY Riveter is a pair of long nose pliers. ![]() The good news is: I found just that solution. They'd better, for that price!! But such prices inspire me to find a solution of my own that will do better than hand riveting but will cost much less than a stock riveter. There is no doubt in my mind that presses and computer controlled riveters deliver superior quality. I don't even want to start thinking about the costs, but it is nice to read about. The most extreme solution I found is one that generates rivet patterns from CAD-drawing and punches them computer controlled in the brass sheet. The basic version costs €132 (at the time of writing $172) and the version with a cross table will cost you an impressive (nice equivoke -) €259 / $338 !!! Godfather Models and Supplies also has a rivet press in stock. On top of that you'll need the various punches and embossing tooling. NWSL's Sensipress currently sells for $129,95 (price level April 2009) and the Riveter attachment to it costs $69,95. But prices soar way over $200, shattering your dreams. If you fancy beautiful tools, like I do, this is something to dream about. A crosstable is the top I guess but only necessary for scratchbuilders and not for kitbuilders that are already supplied with rows of pre-etched holes. Some models are fitted with a crosstable to deliver neat regular and straight rows of rivets. This fancy thing accommodates a punch and die and features adjustable pressure. One step further is the "professional" rivet press. The problem of the underlying surface is not solved though. ![]() The drop height determines the impact so repeatability is good. Lift the weight and drop it along the rod. In essence it is a rod that you place in the etched hole. It is for sale at Godfathers' Models & Supplies for appr. This calls for better solutions.Ī more professional solution is a device that uses a drop weight. ![]() Too hard means the rivet is not correctly formed, too soft spells bending of the etch sheet. The underlying surface is also problematic. The pin is not always held straight, one time you push harder than the other, and every now and then your pliers buzz off possibly damaging your sheet. ![]() It will work but it produces mediocre results. Put the sheet on a flat surface and push a pin with pliers in the hole. The simplest of methods is riveting by hand, well sort of. The modeler should press these holes through with a punch of some sort, resulting in a rivet. The kit supplier solve this by providing half etched holes on the backside of the sheet. Very often the other side of the sheet must be etched as well and etching the rivets renders the sheet too thin or the process too complicated. When making etched kits it not always possible for kit suppliers to etch all rows of rivets. In a trice you can make your own rivet pliers that are cheap and deliver reasonable quality. Specialists' tools are often very expensive. No matter how accurately you work, the etch will bend and the rivets will be irregular. Etched kits often require small half etched holes to be pressed out as a rivet. ![]()
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